Get involved with your friends and neighbours to help increase the tree cover in our communities! From 8 to 80 everyone is getting involved. You can help by:
|•||Emailing email@example.com to get on the list of volunteer planters for community planting days. It’s fun! It’s satisfying!|
|•||Let us know about trees you have planted – when and where of Trees Planted in Woolwich. Email firstname.lastname@example.org|
|•||Talking to us about grants available to rural land owners with more than 2.5 acres of land|
23,000 trees by 2016!
Help create a green legacy for our children and our community
By 1900, forest cover throughout the Grand River watershed had dwindled to just 5%. Intensive reforestation efforts in past decades have improved forest cover over the entire watershed, and it is estimated that Woolwich now has only about 14% forest cover. 30% is considered environmentally ideal, so there is a lot of “growing” to do!
Early in 2011 members of TWEEC (Township of Woolwich Environmental Enhancement Committee) recognized this need to increase the tree planting efforts in Woolwich, and a new offshoot organization was formed. Aptly named “Trees for Woolwich” the new organization aims to plant 23,000 trees — one for each of the township’s residents, and at the same time is hoping to get the community as a whole involved in the joys and benefits of tree planting.
Trees for Woolwich will build upon other tree planting efforts in recent years by groups like the Elmira Lions Club and Woolwich Healthy Communities’ Clean Waterways Group. Trees will be planted on both public and private land, and the group encourages people to look for potential planting opportunities on their own property. One of the group’s goals will be to emphasize the importance in constructing natural windbreaks along roads and between fields as a means to limit erosion and soil runoff, and boost crop yields.
Startup funds to support the initial round of planting in the fall of 2011 and spring of 2012 were provided by Waterloo Region and the Waterloo Stewardship Network.
On October 15, 2011 Trees for Woolwich officially launched their efforts by planting 48 new trees at the recreation centre in Bloomingdale. That afternoon the group planted their “flagship” tree of the project in Elmira’s Gore Park. On October 22 an additional 301 trees were planted at the Floradale Dam. Since 2011, more than 18,000 trees have been planted.
You can track the progress of Trees Planted in Woolwich on their giant tree located at the Township Offices in Elmira. The group also has a Facebook Page “Trees for Woolwich”
We would love to hear from you with ideas, manpower, encouragement or questions.
HELP MAKE IT HAPPEN!
Our mission is to create a green legacy for Woolwich by working with other community members and organizations:
To increase the tree cover in the Twp of Woolwich in a manner which enhances the predominantly rural and agricultural nature of our township as well as the settlement areas. Our first milestone is to plant 23,000 trees by 2016.
To educate residents about the benefits, both to our environment and to human activities, of planting
- When is the best time to plant?
- How deep should I plant my tree?
- Is it necessary to stake my tree?
- How often should I water my tree?
- How soon should I prune my newly planted tree?
- How do I prepare my newly planted trees in order to protect them from winter weather?
- Is it necessary to fertilize my tree?
- Is bonemeal a good fertilizer for all tree and shrub plantings?
- How does one go about getting soil tested for pH?
If a tree has been grown in a container, any time the ground isn’t frozen, or soaking is a good time. The easiest time on the tree is when it is dormant in early spring, or fall.
The most challenging condition for success is very hot, dry weather.
Some species are very unhappy about root disturbance, and larger specimens are best planted dormant, early in spring. Serviceberry, Native Pagoda Dogwood, Beech and Redbud are some examples of species that need extra care.
Whenever you plant, ensure that you will be able to care for your newly planted trees continuously for the whole season. If you are leaving on summer holidays you will need a ‘tree sitter’ to water your tree(s), or you should probably wait until fall.
Under normal soil conditions, you should plant your tree at the same depth that it was planted in its pot. If it is bare root, look for a colour change that shows the change from trunk to root system. If you plant you tree too high, and roots become exposed it will probably die. If you sink it in too low, it can suffocate and fail to thrive and grow, or die.
On heavy clay soil for trees that do not tolerate wet, such as Sugar Maples and fruit trees, it is best to raise the entire planting area up. You do not want to chip a hole into heavy clay where water will pool, and drown the tree.
You may need to stake, or guy your tree depending on the exposure of your site, and the size and leafiness of the crown. If you have a sheltered back yard in town, and a potted tree, you will probably not need to stake it.
If you are planting in a location exposed to the West wind, it would be a good idea to stake. Try to use a method that keeps the tree from blowing over, but allows for some trunk movement to build strength. Be sure to loosen the ties after the first year, and remove them fully by the 2nd year.
The most important thing is to water your tree as it starts to dry out. A deep soaking to the bottom of the roots once a week is much better for strong root development than frequent sprinkles. Use a moisture meter if you are not sure when the tree is dry. Both over-watering and under-watering can harm your tree. When it is first planted, and in hot, dry weather, it needs the most water.
You do not always need to prune your tree. If the tree had roots that were fully contained in a pot, it should not require pruning. If it was “bare root”, or the roots had grown out of the pot, and were then cut off or dried out, you should trim your tree back by 10 to 20% all round at planting time.
Future pruning is best done on dormant trees in March to remove branches that interfere with one another, broken or diseased parts, or to shape the tree as desired. A common reason to prune is to lift up the canopy (remove lower branches) so that you can mow without hitting your head!
Use bonemeal in the planting hole at planting time, to help the tree develop new roots before the ground freezes. Roots can grow even after the leaves fall. Keep your tree watered consistently until the soil freezes hard (don’t stop just because the leaves have fallen).
Use fertilizer with lots of phosphorus to promote root growth. Either an in-organic phosphate-based product, or bonemeal are recommened. Every fertilizer is labeled with three numbers: Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium
Typical Bonemeal is: 4 – 10 - 0
Synthetic Transplanter could be: 10 -52 - 10
Use high Nitrogen fertilizer only if you can water abundantly, and want your tree to grow fast. Remember that soft, fast growth makes tasty salad for insects.
See the previous question… Bonemeal is good for providing the Phosphorus that trees and shrubs need to grow strong roots. Bonemeal can break down fairly slowly in some soil conditions, so you may want to use a soluble transplanter fertilizer right at planting time. The bonemeal worked in to the soil around the roots will become available slowly, but then lasts well.
You can pick up a pH test kit at most nurseries, or hardware stores that sell garden supplies. Generally soils around here are not acidic (alkaline). Some very light sandy soils may be more acidic. Most native trees and shrubs are widely tolerant of varied pH values. Drainage and light levels tend to be much more important factors determining the success of your tree planting.